Safety First
Before removing the toilet, turn off the water supply at the shutoff valve and flush the toilet to empty as much water as possible from the tank and bowl. Remove any remaining water with a sponge or wet/dry vacuum before disconnecting the supply line.
Toilets are heavy and awkward to lift, so get a second person to help if necessary and lift with your legs. Once the toilet is removed, temporarily plug the open drain with a rag to prevent sewer gases from entering the room. Do not push the rag down into the drain, and remember to remove it before reinstalling the toilet.
Wear disposable gloves when removing the old wax ring and cleaning around the flange.
Time
1-2 Hours
Difficulty
Moderate
Cost
$10-$30
🧰 Tools & Materials
- Adjustable wrench
- Pliers
- Putty knife or plastic scraper
- Sponge or wet/dry vacuum
- Bucket
- Old towels or rags
- Disposable gloves
- New toilet wax ring
- Replacement closet bolts — recommended
- Plastic toilet shims — if needed
- Utility knife — optional
- Caulk and caulk gun — if your toilet is caulked around the base
💡 Pro Tip: Wax rings are inexpensive. If you’re unsure which thickness you need, buy both a standard and extra-thick wax ring before starting and return the one you don’t use.
Signs It’s Time to Replace the Wax Ring
A toilet wax ring can last for many years, but once its seal fails, it needs to be replaced. Watch for:
- Water leaking around the base of the toilet after flushing
- Soft, stained, or damaged flooring around the toilet
- A persistent sewer-gas smell near the toilet
- A toilet that rocks or moves, which can damage the wax seal
- Water appearing below the toilet on the ceiling underneath the bathroom
- A toilet that was recently removed — wax rings should never be reused
Not every leak around a toilet is caused by the wax ring. Before removing the toilet, check the supply line, shutoff valve, tank bolts, and tank-to-bowl connection for water that could be running down onto the floor.
If you’re not sure where the water is coming from, start with our How to Fix a Leaky Toilet guide before removing the toilet.
Before You Buy
Wax rings come in several styles and thicknesses. Before choosing one, consider the position of your toilet flange.
A standard wax ring usually works when the top of the flange sits approximately level with or slightly above the finished floor.
An extra-thick wax ring may be necessary when the flange sits slightly below the finished floor.
Some wax rings include a plastic horn or funnel, while others are wax only. Either style can work when properly sized and installed.
If the flange sits significantly below the floor, is cracked, loose, or badly corroded, don’t try to compensate with an oversized stack of wax rings. The flange may need to be repaired or raised first.
💡 Pro Tip: Pick up a new set of closet bolts while you’re buying the wax ring. They’re inexpensive, and replacing old or corroded bolts makes reinstalling the toilet much easier.
Step 1: Turn Off the Water
Turn the toilet’s shutoff valve clockwise until it stops.
Flush the toilet and hold the handle down to drain as much water as possible from the tank.
Remove the tank lid and use a sponge or wet/dry vacuum to remove the remaining water from the tank and bowl.
What You Should See: Very little water should remain in the tank or bowl.
If Yours Looks Different: If water continues entering the tank after the valve is closed, your shutoff valve may not be sealing completely. Don’t disconnect the supply line until the water is fully controlled.
If the valve won’t completely stop the water flow, see our How to Replace a Toilet Shut-Off Valve guide before continuing.
Step 2: Disconnect the Water Supply Line
Place a towel or small bucket underneath the toilet’s fill valve connection.
Unscrew the supply line from the bottom of the toilet tank. You may be able to loosen it by hand; otherwise, carefully use pliers or an adjustable wrench.
Expect a small amount of remaining water to drain from the line.
What You Should See: The supply line should be completely separated from the toilet without water continuously flowing from it.
If Yours Looks Different: If the connection is heavily corroded or the supply line looks cracked or worn, replace the supply line rather than reusing it.
Step 3: Remove the Toilet Bolt Caps and Nuts
Remove the decorative caps covering the bolts at the base of the toilet.
Use an adjustable wrench or socket to remove the nuts and washers from both closet bolts.
What You Should See: Both mounting bolts should be exposed and the toilet should no longer be secured to the floor.
If Yours Looks Different: Rusted nuts may be difficult to remove. Apply penetrating oil and give it time to work. Severely corroded bolts may need to be carefully cut.
💡 Pro Tip: Don’t aggressively twist a stubborn nut against the porcelain. Toilet bases can crack if too much force is applied.
Step 4: Cut the Caulk Around the Toilet
If the toilet is caulked to the floor, carefully cut through the caulk around the base with a utility knife.
Work around the entire toilet until the seal between the toilet and floor is broken.
What You Should See: The toilet should be free from the flooring once the bolts and caulk are released.
If Yours Looks Different: If the toilet still won’t move, double-check for remaining caulk or hardware before applying additional force.
Step 5: Lift the Toilet Off the Flange
Gently rock the toilet from side to side to break the old wax seal.
With your feet positioned securely, lift with your legs and keep your back straight. Have another person help if the toilet is too heavy or awkward.
Move the toilet onto cardboard, old towels, or another protected surface.
What You Should See: The toilet flange and old wax ring should now be visible around the drain opening.
If Yours Looks Different: If the toilet won’t lift easily, make sure the mounting nuts and any remaining caulk have been completely removed.
Step 6: Plug the Drain Opening
Loosely place an old rag into the drain opening to help prevent sewer gases from entering the bathroom and to keep debris from falling into the pipe.
Leave enough of the rag sticking out that it cannot accidentally fall into the drain.
What You Should See: The drain opening should be temporarily covered while leaving the flange accessible.
If Yours Looks Different: Never stuff the rag deep into the pipe. It should be easy to see and remove before reinstalling the toilet.
Step 7: Remove the Old Wax Ring
Put on disposable gloves and use a putty knife or plastic scraper to remove the old wax from the toilet flange.
Also scrape remaining wax from the outlet on the bottom of the toilet.
Place the old wax and debris directly into a trash bag.
What You Should See: The flange and toilet outlet should be reasonably clean with most of the old wax removed.
If Yours Looks Different: Heavy rust, broken plastic, or loose flange pieces may indicate that the flange itself needs repair.
Step 8: Inspect the Toilet Flange
Before installing the new wax ring, inspect the flange carefully.
Make sure it is:
- Securely attached to the floor
- Free from cracks or broken sections
- Not severely rusted or corroded
- Positioned at an appropriate height relative to the finished floor
Check the flooring around the flange for signs of water damage, softness, or rot.
What You Should See: A solid flange that does not move when you gently test it.
If Yours Looks Different: A cracked, loose, badly corroded, or improperly positioned flange should be repaired before reinstalling the toilet. A new wax ring cannot compensate for a damaged flange.
Step 9: Install New Closet Bolts
Slide the new closet bolts into the slots on the toilet flange and position them directly across from one another.
Use any included washers or retainers to help hold the bolts upright.
What You Should See: Two bolts standing vertically and positioned to line up with the mounting holes in the toilet base.
If Yours Looks Different: If the bolts won’t stay upright or the flange slots are damaged, the flange may need repair before proceeding.
Step 10: Install the New Wax Ring
Remove the rag from the drain before continuing.
Place the new wax ring according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Depending on the ring, it may be positioned directly on the flange or pressed onto the toilet outlet.
Keep the wax ring centered and avoid deforming it unnecessarily.
What You Should See: The wax ring should sit evenly and be centered around the drain opening.
If Yours Looks Different: If the flange sits noticeably below the finished floor, verify that you’re using the correct wax ring thickness before setting the toilet.
💡 Pro Tip: Once the toilet compresses the wax ring, don’t lift it back up to reposition it. Lifting the toilet can break the new seal. If that happens, use another new wax ring.
Step 11: Set the Toilet
With help if necessary, lift the toilet and carefully align the mounting holes in the base with the closet bolts.
Lower the toilet straight down onto the wax ring.
Once positioned, press down firmly on the toilet using your body weight to compress the wax ring.
Avoid rocking or twisting the toilet excessively.
What You Should See: The toilet base should sit flat against the floor with both closet bolts extending through the mounting holes.
If Yours Looks Different: If the toilet won’t sit flat, don’t force it down by tightening the nuts. Lift the toilet, determine what’s interfering, and install a new wax ring before trying again.
If you’re replacing the entire toilet rather than reinstalling the existing one, follow our How to Replace a Toilet guide for the complete installation process.
Step 12: Secure and Level the Toilet
Install the washers and nuts onto the closet bolts.
Tighten each side a little at a time, alternating between the two sides.
The toilet should feel secure without rocking.
If necessary, slide plastic toilet shims underneath low areas of the base before final tightening.
Do not overtighten the nuts. Porcelain can crack.
What You Should See: The toilet should sit solidly on the floor without rocking.
If Yours Looks Different: If tightening the nuts is the only thing pulling the toilet down to the floor, stop. Something underneath the toilet may be preventing it from seating properly.
Step 13: Reconnect the Water and Test
Reconnect the water supply line to the toilet and tighten it securely without overtightening.
Slowly turn the shutoff valve counterclockwise and allow the tank to fill.
Check the supply connection for leaks.
Flush the toilet several times while carefully inspecting around the entire base.
What You Should See: The toilet should flush normally, remain completely stable, and stay dry around the base.
If Yours Looks Different: Water appearing around the base after flushing may indicate that the wax ring did not seal correctly. Turn off the water and investigate before continuing to use the toilet.
💡 Pro Tip: Before applying new caulk around the toilet base, flush the toilet several times and make absolutely sure the new wax seal isn’t leaking.
If Something Goes Wrong
The toilet rocks after installation:
Check that the floor is level and use plastic toilet shims where necessary. Don’t try to eliminate rocking simply by overtightening the mounting nuts.
The toilet won’t sit flat:
Stop tightening the bolts. The wax ring may be too thick, the closet bolts may be interfering, or something may be preventing the toilet from seating properly.
Water leaks around the base after flushing:
The wax seal may not have seated correctly. Unfortunately, once a wax ring’s seal has been compromised, the toilet generally needs to be removed and another new wax ring installed.
The flange is cracked or loose:
Do not reinstall the toilet and hope the wax ring fixes it. Repair or replace the flange first.
The flange sits too low:
Use an appropriate flange extender or other approved repair method rather than stacking multiple wax rings as a shortcut.
A closet bolt spins when tightening:
The bolt may not be properly seated in the flange slot. Remove the toilet if necessary and reposition or replace the bolt.
🛑 Common Mistakes to Avoid
- Reusing an old wax ring after the toilet has been lifted
- Installing the wrong wax ring thickness
- Forgetting to remove the rag from the drain
- Setting the toilet down off-center and trying to slide it into position
- Lifting the toilet after the new wax ring has already been compressed
- Overtightening the closet bolt nuts and cracking the porcelain
- Ignoring a toilet that rocks after installation
- Installing a new wax ring over a damaged or loose flange
- Assuming every leak around the toilet base is caused by the wax ring
- Caulking the toilet before confirming that the new seal doesn’t leak
âť“ Frequently Asked Questions
How long does a toilet wax ring last?
A properly installed wax ring can last 20 years or longer. It doesn’t normally need routine replacement unless the seal fails or the toilet is removed.
Can I reuse a toilet wax ring?
No. Once a wax ring has been compressed, it should not be reused. Install a new ring anytime the toilet is removed.
How do I know if my toilet wax ring is bad?
Common signs include water leaking around the toilet base after flushing, sewer odors, damaged flooring, or water appearing beneath the bathroom.
Should I use a standard or extra-thick wax ring?
That depends primarily on the height of the toilet flange relative to the finished floor. A standard ring usually works with a properly positioned flange, while a slightly recessed flange may require an extra-thick ring.
Can I use two wax rings?
Stacking wax rings is sometimes done, but it’s generally better to correct the flange height or use a product designed for the specific installation rather than relying on stacked rings.
Should I caulk around the toilet after replacing the wax ring?
Caulking around the base can help keep water and debris from getting underneath the toilet and may be required by local plumbing codes. Make sure the toilet has been thoroughly tested for leaks before applying caulk.
Why is my toilet still leaking after replacing the wax ring?
The toilet may not have been lowered straight onto the ring, the ring may be the wrong thickness, the flange could be damaged, or the leak may actually be coming from the tank, supply line, or shutoff valve.
đź“ž When to Call a Professional
Replacing a toilet wax ring is manageable for many homeowners, but stop and call a plumber if:
- The toilet flange is cracked, broken, severely corroded, or loose
- The flange or drain pipe needs to be repositioned or repaired
- You discover rotted or badly damaged subflooring
- Water has leaked into the ceiling or structure below the bathroom
- The toilet continues leaking after the wax ring has been replaced
- You cannot get the toilet to sit level and stable
- You’re unsure whether the leak is actually coming from the wax seal
A wax ring replacement is straightforward when the flange and flooring underneath the toilet are in good condition. If you uncover structural or plumbing damage after lifting the toilet, fixing that problem first will give the new seal the best chance of lasting.
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