How to Fix a Door That Won’t Close

🧰 Tools & Materials

Tools

• Phillips screwdriver
• Drill/driver
• Tape measure
• Level
• Utility knife
• Pencil
• Hammer
• Wood chisel, if strike plate adjustment is needed

Materials

• 2½- to 3-inch wood screws
• Replacement hinge screws, if needed
• Wooden toothpicks or small wood splinters for stripped screw holes
• Wood glue
• Replacement strike plate, if needed

Signs Your Door Needs Adjustment

A door that will not close correctly usually gives you clues about what has moved.

Look for:

• The door rubbing against the top or side of the frame
• The bottom of the door dragging across the floor
• The latch hitting above or below the strike plate
• A door that closes but will not latch
• A door that swings open or closed on its own
• A noticeably uneven gap around the door
• A handle that has to be lifted or pushed down to make the door latch
• Loose or visibly sagging hinges

If the door also sticks, sags, rubs the frame, or won’t close properly, the problem may be alignment rather than just a dry hinge. If the door is rubbing or binding as it moves, see How to Fix a Door That Sticks before assuming the hinge only needs lubricant.

Before You Start

Do not start sanding, cutting, or planing the door just because it rubs somewhere.

Most interior doors that suddenly stop closing properly have an alignment problem, not a door-size problem. Removing material from the door before checking the hinges can create a large permanent gap once the actual problem is corrected.

Start by slowly closing the door and watching the gap between the door and frame.

Ideally, the gap should look fairly even around the top and both sides.

Look closely at the hinge side. Loose hinge screws can allow the door to sag, which often causes the upper latch-side corner to rub against the frame.

Also check the latch. If the door fits inside the opening but simply will not latch, the problem may be the strike plate rather than the door itself.

If the problem changes throughout the year, humidity may also be causing a wood door or frame to expand and contract.

Step 1: Find Where the Door Is Hitting

Slowly swing the door closed and watch carefully.

Do not force it shut.

Look around the entire edge of the door and determine exactly where it first touches the frame.

Run your hand along the edges if necessary and look for:

• Rub marks
• Scraped paint
• Shiny spots
• Compressed weatherstripping
• Small gaps that disappear as the door closes

Then look at the spacing around the door while it is almost closed.

What You Should See: There should be a relatively consistent gap around the top and sides of the door.

If Yours Looks Different: If the hinge is pulling away from the wood or the screws are visibly loose, tighten the screws before lubricating it. A loose hinge can move under the weight of the door and create noise that lubricant alone won’t fix. If the door has noticeably dropped or the gaps around it are uneven, see How to Fix a Sagging Door.

💡 Pro Tip: Put a small pencil mark on the frame where the door rubs. This makes it much easier to tell whether your adjustments are actually improving the alignment.

Step 2: Check and Tighten the Hinges

Open the door and inspect every hinge.

Look for loose screws, screws sticking out slightly, or hinges that move when you lift gently on the door handle.

Start with a screwdriver and tighten any loose screws.

Pay particular attention to the top hinge. When a door sags, the top hinge is often where the problem begins.

Do not immediately drive every screw as tight as possible with a drill. Older screws can strip the wood or snap if overtightened.

After tightening the hinges, close the door again and check the alignment.

Sometimes this alone fixes the problem.

What You Should See: The hinges should sit flat against both the door and jamb without moving when the door is opened and closed.

If Yours Looks Different: If a screw turns continuously without tightening, the screw hole is probably stripped. Do not keep spinning the screw.

Step 3: Repair Any Stripped Hinge Screw Holes

If a hinge screw will not tighten, remove it.

For a lightly stripped hole, insert one or more wooden toothpicks or small wood splinters coated with wood glue into the hole.

Break or trim them flush with the surface.

Once the glue has set sufficiently to hold the repair, reinstall the screw.

For a more heavily damaged hole, a longer screw may be the better solution.

A 2½- to 3-inch wood screw through the jamb side of the top hinge can often reach the wall framing behind the door jamb and pull a sagging door back into alignment.

Drive the longer screw gradually while watching the door.

Do not bury the screw deeply enough to distort the hinge.

💡 Pro Tip: If the top latch-side corner of the door is rubbing, replacing one jamb-side screw in the top hinge with a longer screw is often one of the quickest fixes.

Step 4: Check the Door Alignment Again

Close the door slowly after tightening or repairing the hinges.

Look at the gap around the door again.

If the rubbing has disappeared, open and close the door several times to make sure the repair holds.

If the door now fits inside the opening but still will not latch, look closely at where the latch meets the strike plate.

A useful trick is to put a small amount of washable marker, chalk, or even a piece of painter’s tape around the strike plate area. Close the door gently and operate the handle.

The contact mark can show whether the latch is hitting:

• Above the opening
• Below the opening
• Too far toward the inside edge
• Too far toward the outside edge

What You Should See: The latch should enter the center of the strike plate opening without requiring you to lift, push, or pull the door.

Step 5: Adjust the Strike Plate if Needed

If the door closes freely but the latch misses the strike plate slightly, loosen the strike plate screws.

For a very small adjustment, you may be able to shift the plate enough to line up with the latch.

Retighten the screws and test the door.

If the latch is only catching the edge of the opening, you may be able to carefully enlarge the opening slightly with a file.

For a larger adjustment, the strike plate may need to be repositioned.

Remove the plate and mark its new position.

If necessary, use a sharp wood chisel to carefully extend the shallow recess so the plate can sit flush with the door jamb in its new location.

Do not leave the strike plate sitting on top of the wood. A raised plate can create another interference point.

If Yours Looks Different: If the latch is missing the strike plate by a large amount, do not immediately relocate the plate. Go back and inspect the hinges and overall door alignment. A large mismatch usually means something more than the strike plate has moved.

Step 6: Address Minor Rubbing That Remains

If the hinges are secure, the door is properly aligned, and only a very small area still rubs, minor adjustment to the rubbing surface may be appropriate.

First look for excessive paint buildup on the door or frame. Several layers of paint can reduce the clearance enough to make an otherwise properly fitted door stick.

A small amount of buildup can sometimes be carefully scraped or sanded smooth.

If you have a solid wood door that swells seasonally, very light sanding may also create enough clearance.

Remove as little material as possible, then test the door again.

Do not aggressively sand or plane a door until you are confident the hinges and frame are correctly aligned.

If Yours Looks Different: Hollow-core interior doors have limited solid material around their edges. Removing too much from the bottom or sides can expose the hollow interior, so major trimming should not be your first solution.

Step 7: Test the Door

Open and close the door several times.

It should move freely without scraping, dragging, or requiring extra force.

Close it slowly and listen for rubbing.

Then operate the handle and make sure the latch enters the strike plate smoothly.

Test the door from both sides.

If the same hinge continues squeaking after the pin has been cleaned and lubricated, inspect it for bent hinge leaves, excessive rust, or worn hinge knuckles. At that point, replacing the door hinge may be the better fix.

What You Should See: The door should swing smoothly, sit evenly in the opening, and latch without needing to be lifted, pushed, slammed, or pulled into position.

If Something Goes Wrong

Problem: The hinge screw just keeps spinning

The screw hole is stripped. Remove the screw and repair the hole with wood and glue, or use an appropriately sized longer screw that can reach solid framing behind the jamb.

Problem: Tightening the top hinge helped, but the door still rubs

Check the other hinges for loose screws and inspect the gap around the entire door. The door may have more than one loose hinge, or the frame itself may be slightly out of alignment.

Problem: The door closes but will not latch

Look at exactly where the latch contacts the strike plate. A small strike plate adjustment may be all that is needed.

Problem: I have to lift the door handle to make it latch

The door is probably sagging. Concentrate on the top hinge and check for loose or stripped screws before moving the strike plate.

Problem: The bottom of the door drags on the floor

Check for sagging hinges first.

If the door is correctly aligned but still contacts new carpet or flooring, the bottom may require trimming. Removing a door and trimming it evenly is a more involved repair, especially with hollow-core doors.

Problem: The door only sticks during certain times of the year

Wood doors and frames can expand during humid weather. If the problem is minor and seasonal, avoid making aggressive permanent adjustments.

A small amount of sanding may be appropriate once you have confirmed the hinges and alignment are correct.

Problem: The door suddenly became badly misaligned

Look around the frame and nearby wall for cracks, separation, or movement.

A small alignment change is common. A large or sudden change accompanied by cracking or visible movement can indicate a larger issue with the opening or surrounding structure and should be investigated before modifying the door.

Problem: A longer hinge screw is not pulling the door into alignment

Stop tightening it if the jamb begins bending or the hinge starts sinking into the wood. The problem may be with the frame rather than a loose hinge.

🛑 Common Mistakes to Avoid

• Sanding or trimming the door before checking the hinges
• Moving the strike plate to compensate for a badly sagging door
• Overtightening hinge screws and stripping the wood
• Using a drill at full power on old hinge screws
• Removing too much material from the edge of the door
• Ignoring stripped screw holes
• Forcing or slamming the door to make it latch
• Assuming every sticking door needs to be replaced
• Ignoring a sudden major change in door alignment

❓ FAQs

Why did my door suddenly stop closing?

Loose hinge screws are one of the most common causes. Seasonal humidity, settling, paint buildup, or movement in the door frame can also change the alignment.

Why does the top corner of my door rub against the frame?

The door is often sagging slightly because the top hinge or its screws have loosened.

Can I just sand down the part that is rubbing?

Sometimes, but check the hinges and alignment first. Sanding a sagging door treats the symptom instead of the cause and can leave an oversized gap later.

Why does my door close but not latch?

The latch and strike plate may no longer line up. First make sure the door is hanging correctly, then adjust the strike plate if necessary.

Why do I have to lift my door to close it?

That usually indicates the door has sagged. Inspect the top hinge for loose or stripped screws.

Can I use longer screws in a door hinge?

Yes. A 2½- to 3-inch screw installed through the jamb side of a hinge can sometimes reach the framing behind the jamb and provide a much stronger attachment.

Should the gap around a door be perfectly even?

It does not have to be mathematically perfect, especially in an older house. What matters is that the door has enough clearance to move freely and latch correctly.

Why does my door stick when it is humid outside?

Wood can absorb moisture and expand slightly during humid weather. If the door only sticks seasonally, avoid removing a large amount of material.

📞 When to Call a Professional

Most loose hinges, stripped screw holes, minor rubbing, and slightly misaligned strike plates are reasonable DIY repairs.

Consider calling a carpenter, handyman, or other qualified professional if:

• The door frame is visibly twisted or badly out of square.
• The door suddenly becomes severely misaligned.
• Large cracks appear around the door opening.
• The jamb moves when the door is operated.
• An exterior door no longer seals or locks securely.
• Significant trimming or rehanging of a heavy door is required.
• You suspect movement in the wall or structure surrounding the opening.
• Previous adjustments have not corrected the problem.

A door that is simply rubbing is usually a straightforward repair. A door opening that appears to be moving deserves a closer look before you start cutting or modifying anything.

Related DIY Guides

• How to Replace Door Hinges
• How to Fix a Sagging Door
• How to Fix a Door That Sticks
• How to Fix a Door That Won’t Close
• How to Fix a Loose Door Knob